Closing in on completion with the new Plague Marines

I know it’s been a while, again! But I’m back with an update. Real life and some other distractions have continued to make working on my Plague Marines a challenge, but I’ve kept the ball moving forward on them. I haven’t posted any in-progress shots of these guys, unfortunately. They did make an appearance in a previous post, though. Working on these new Plague Marines has been fun, but also a bit challenging. The models are loaded with detail, so it takes me a lot longer to paint each one, even when I’m using short cuts. The current Chaos Space Marine line troops just don’t have as much “decoration,” so to speak, so painting them is much easier. The total color palette isn’t that varied on those models. Or rather, it doesn’t have to be. With the new Plague Marines I have to make more conscious decisions on what colors to use, because the decorations aren’t just extra trim and spikes. Now there are tentacles, trophies, blight grenades, exposed mutated skin, mutated armor, and all the like. You can’t just paint all that stuff green and think it’ll look interesting on the tabletop.

Plague Marines squad, working on highlights

So as you can see above, I’ve gone through the base coats and through most of the highlights. The fellas on the left are actually done with everything. The last thing I did on them was the green armor highlights. The rest of the squad on the right has yet to have those green armor highlights.

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Considering the new Plague Marines

Over the holidays, I grabbed one of the new boxes of Plague Marines to add to my growing collection of plastic Plague Marines. While I had initially resisted the temptation, I think I am going to slowly move all my Death Guard Plague Marine models over from metal to plastic. I’ve already built the squad from the Dark Imperium Box and I nearly have them all painted up. I also got the First Strike box. That means I have quite a few of the Easy-to-Build variety of Plague Marines. I wanted to see what the new multi-part models looked like.

New Plague Marines

Here are some of my first impressions. The multi-part kit comes with a lot of options for the squad. In fact, it comes with enough parts to build at least one of any option (except one) you can put on the Plague Marines. That means you can build at least one Plague Marine with the Great Plague Cleaver or a plasma gun, but you can’t build two with just one box. So if you want to max out one one option, you are going to need at least two (or more) boxes of Plague Marines. You can also try to pull bits off eBay, though that will lead to a possible problem (more on that in a second). I do think having all the options in the box is a great feature. It makes life a lot easier for folks who don’t have the time or skill for conversion work. It also makes the general building process quicker.

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Updates: Armies on Parade and Antares

It’s been a little while – over a month, now – since I posted. A lot of real life stuff, including a new house and moving into said house, has meant almost zero hobby time until this past week. But now that things have settled down, I’m getting back into the swing of things. So, here are a couple updates.

First up is an Armies on Parade board. After missing the last couple of Armies on Parade events, I promised my local Games Workshop shop manager I’d participate. Knowing I wouldn’t have time for something amazing with the board, and it being a little while since I did something like this, I decided to go the simple route. I wanted to do a two-tier board to keep it from being completely boring. The three options I though about were a centralized tier, an unbroken back tier, or a split back tier. As you can see, I went with the third option.

Armies on Parade board, foam

The Armies on Parade rules say the board limit size is 24″ x 24″ with no real height limit. Height wasn’t really my concern this time around. I did go for the full size limit on the board because I was concerned about running out of space. I picked up two 2′ x 2′ squares of insulation foam and a thin plywood 2′ x 2′ board from my local Home Depot, along with a 2″ brush and big bottle of wood glue. I glued the base foam square to the wood board. I figured the would would act to reinforce the foam for transport, as well as protect it in case of any accidental drops. Once that was dry, I marked off where I wanted the tier pieces to go, then I use a hot wire foam cutter to carve appropriate chunks out of the other piece of foam. I smoothed out the foam surfaces where the cuts were made and then glued the pieces down.

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To Antares, and beyond!

It’s been a couple of weeks since I last posted. Lots of real life stuff has taken up my free time and attention over the past few weeks, so I haven’t had time to write anything up. However, I have been able to do a little bit of hobby work.

Now, while I primarily focus on Warhammer 40k here, in no way is this blog exclusive to that game. One game that has been sitting on my shelf that I’ve been wanting to try is Beyond the Gates of Antares, which is from Warlord Games and written by Rick Priestly.

Antares models, both sides

I’ve spent some time putting the models together. In The Xilos Horizon starter box, you get models from two factions: the Ghar Empire and the Concord. I haven’t read the fluff for the milieu quite yet, but the Ghar seem kind of like a cross between 40k Orks and Tau. The Concord are pretty much just humans. A 40k equivalent would probably be Tempestus Scions.

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Quick update on the Chaos psykers

Unfortunately I didn’t get to play today. The local Games Workshop was closed. But progress on my Chaos psykers is moving quickly. In fact, I got one of them to such a state of readiness that I expected to use him in a game. Alas, that was not to be. That gave me time to really complete him. So here is my newest Black Legion sorcerer:

Metal Sorcerer, completed, front

For whatever reason, primer seems to bond better with plastic than metal. That means both better adherence to the model and smoother, cleaner surfaces to paint. Also, the small details on the old metal models are just not that well done. Recesses in the new plastics are much deeper. That means the shades really help details pop on the newer models. On the metal ones, you still have to kinda “brute force” the highlights. It’s tedious and often frustrating.

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