I actually finished up this Khorne Daemonkin Maulerfiend a couple of days ago, but real life intruded, as it often does. Also, free time since my last post was in short supply so I used what free time I had to actually finish work on the model rather than post updates. That said, the second dino-bot is finished:
The only difference with this model is I haven’t painted the alternative magnetized pieces for the Forgefiend yet.
So the painting process on this Maulerfiend didn’t go as smoothly as the last. I made a few brush mistakes on the highlighting part that required me to go back over shaded areas. In those shaded areas, I had simply gone over the base coat with Nuln Oil, though I made sure to work the shade to be as smooth as possible. What I found was when I went over the mistake areas (first with the base coat, then with the Nuln Oil), the shading was of a clearly different tint. So I couldn’t simply “patch” the area where the mistake was, I had to redo the entire contiguous section. That took more time than I expected. If anyone as a suggestion for a better method, I’m definitely interested in any advice.
As with the previous model, I did not do anything to the exhaust pipes after base-coating, other than cleaning up any mistakes. Will I go back and do some more on that section? Possibly. I don’t think the model looks too bad now, but with the other mistakes I made on this Maulerfiend, it reinforced my concern that I want to actually practice the “glow” technique on a smaller model first, get a bit of mastery, then come back and work on the exhaust pipes. I have a feeling no matter how many instructional videos I watch, the heuristic nature of that technique would be too aggravating for this model for a first try.
I don’t mean to sound negative, because on balance, I’m pretty pleased with how this Maulerfiend has turned out. I still really like my recipe for the gold trim throughout this army, and this model reinforced that. With the lasher tendrils, I again used the dry brush for the highlights, and I think I will continue to use it in the future. This was a simple Boltgun Metal –> Nuln Oil –> Necron Compound recipe that worked for both the cable side and the armor plate side of the lasher tendrils. However, I think my success with the dry brushing had more to do with the brush I used than anything else. I picked up a couple of The Army Painter hobby dry brushes. They were much cheaper than the old Games Workshop dry brushes, and seem to work much better. The question is their durability; will they last long? I’ll keep you updated on that score.
With this latest completion, my Khorne Daemonkin army moves ever closer to being a full-fledged army. Right now, I run the army with a squad of Chaos Space Marines and a Rhino from my Black Legion (and vanilla Chaos Space Marine) army. I thought I might just continue to do this. After all, it would be completely logical within the Warhammer 40,000 milieu for a group of Khorne-dedicated Black Legion troops to become more zealous and decide to throw in with the Bloodthirster worshippers. But… it just doesn’t look right on the table. So, I’m going to replace those borrowed items with models painted in the Khorne Daemonkin colors. That’s down the road, though. My next model will be one of the summoned units – a Skull Cannon.
I’ll post up about that in the next day or two. Thanks again for looking and reading!